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Bain Marie Custard Bread Pudding

Meredith

Posted on January 1, 2014

DSC_0451
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pudding

This bread pudding is a soft custard even more tender than a flan, and all of the sugar is in sauce at the bottom of the double boiler, until you invert it.  This allows a rustic mix of flavors, as the ingredients are layered into the pot, and cooked gently for a couple of hours, and then allowed to rest before being turned out.  The recipe is so simple, but I have fancied it up with Cognac, vanilla bean, and freshly grated cinnamon and nutmeg if you like.  You could do many variations: almond extract, ginger, different types of bread, bourbon instead of Cognac, dried fruits– I have been thinking about this while it simmers away. I would swoon with adjectives telling you how it tasted, but I feel like the pictures speak for themselves.  If you have ever had a good custard, or a good hard sauce, well, this is lot of flavors you may have had– but all together in layers. I had made it twice, and will be making it many more times.

This was our Christmas dinner dessert that followed an epic fresh ham roasted in the oven.  The ham came from North Carolina, and the bain marie came from Tucson.  Fresh ham is not the pink smoked/ cured things you see in the store.  Ham merely refers to a cut of meat, not the salty flavor of cold cuts after curing and smoking the meat. A fresh ham is like a big pork roast that cooks slow, has lots of healthy fat, and the most wonderful pan drippings (especially when braised with white wine). We brined the ham in fresh rosemary, garlic, onion, celery, cloves, salt and sugar. Then we roasted it for about 6 hours.

But back to the pudding.  It was quite the encore.  It is very simple.

The night before, or the morning before, take the raisins and put them in a jar with the Cognac with the lid on. Let them plump. When you are ready to make the pudding, begin to layer the ingredients into a double boiler.

brown sugar

place bread and raisin mixture on top of brown sugar– do not mix

place the bottom of the bain marie on the stove, fill with about 3 inches of water

place the insert filled with sugar and bread into the bottom of bain marie

pour the custard mixture of egg, milk, salt, vanilla bean over the bread– do not mix

pulling away from the sides

Bain Marie Custard Bread Pudding

Ingredients

                    • 3/4 cup brown sugar
                    • 1/2 cup raisins
                    • 1/4 cup Cognac
                    • 3-4 slices of bread (such as cracked wheat sourdough) cut into 1 inch squares or torn
                    • zest of half an orange
                    • 1 tsp cinnamon
                    • 1/4 tsp nutmeg
                    • 3 eggs
                    • 2 cups whole milk
                    • 1/2 vanilla bean, scraped
                    • 1/4 tsp salt

Procedure

  1. Plump raisins in Cognac for several hours.
  2. Spread brown sugar evenly into bain marie insert pan.
  3. Toss bread with raisins, Cognac, orange zest, cinnamon, nutmeg.  Layer the bread over the brown sugar, DO NOT MIX with the sugar.
  4. Whisk the eggs, milk, and scraped vanilla bean seeds and salt together until creamy and pale yellow.  Set aside.
  5. Add water to the bottom pan of the double boiler/ bain marie– about 3 inches, and place it on the stove.  Place the insert pan (with sugar and bread layers inside) into the bottom pan.
  6. Pour the custard (milk and egg) mixture over the bread.  DO NOT MIX. Cover with a lid, leaving at least a couple of inches of space from the top of the pot for the custard to rise.
  7. Heat on medium-high until water is boiling, then reduce to medium. Cook for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, checking after 45 minutes to add more water to the bottom pan.  I added water twice, and cooked for 2 hours.
  8. When the pudding is done it will be very soft like a flan, but pull away from the sides of the pot slightly when gently pressed.  Turn the heat off.  Leave the lid on, and let the pudding rest for one hour.  It will still be warm.  Turn the pudding out onto a platter with enough room/ depth for the sauce to pool around it.  Slice and serve warm, spooning the sauce over each piece.  Refrigerate any remaining pudding at this point.

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Categories: dessert, recipes, vegetarian

Tagged: bain marie, bread, bread pudding, cognac, custard, dessert, double boiler, food, pudding, recipe, vanilla bean

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Arkansas Black Apple Tart

Meredith

Posted on November 27, 2013

Happy Thanksgiving. Make this tart with whatever apples you like, but if you can find Arkansas Black apples (these were from the store known as “Whole Paycheck”) buy lots of them– they keep in the crisper drawer a long time, and get blacker and sweeter with age.

They are sweet/ tart– great for baking, but also nice and crisp for eating.  Thank you Johnny Appleseed!

Arkansas Black Apples

I sliced mine here on the mandolin– but I have made this tart with thicker slices, and it was still very good.  The crust is a super buttery sweet tart pastry from Mark Bittman in The New York Times.  The recipe made enough for a very simple 10 inch tart, or a folded edge/ rustic 9 inch tart.

roll up the dough onto your rolling pin, then unroll onto the tart pan

Tarts are a great alternative to pies– significantly lower in sugar, but still very rich and satisfying.  At big holiday dinners, these are good to bring for folks who are watching their sugar intake.  Also, much easier to make than a double-crust pie.

after macerating overnight

Apple Tart

Ingredients

  • 1 basic tart crust
  • 2 large apples, peeled and sliced 1/8 inch thick
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • dash of nutmeg
  • juice of half an orange

Procedure

  1. Slice the apples, and very gently toss with sugar.  Allow them to macerate in a strainer over a bowl or saucepan– either at room temperature for about an hour, or overnight in the refrigerator.  Reserve the juices for later.
  2. Roll out your tart dough and place in the tart pan.  If you are making a 10-inch tart like the one shown here, press the dough into the crimped sides using the side of your finger, and press it down so it is level with the top of the eddge of the pan.  If you are making a 8 or 9-inch tart, leave the edges of the dough hanging over the sides while you arrange the apples.
  3. Preheat your oven to 400 degrees.  Arrange the apples– you can do this in several layers, or increase the amount each slice overlaps the preceding slice, so that you have one very tight layer.
  4. Heat the reserved apple/ sugar juices in a sauce pan on medium high heat, add spices and orange juice.  Reduce it by 1/2.  Pour the liquid over the apples, or brush it on.
  5. Bake the tart for 40-45 minutes until golden brown.

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Categories: dessert, recipes, vegetarian

Tagged: apple tart, arkansas black apples, baking, Basic Tart Crust, buttery, food, holidays, Mark Bittman, new york times, pastry, pie, recipe, thanksgiving

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homemade stock

Meredith

Posted on November 26, 2013

How many of my readers can confess to having tossed a chicken or turkey carcass in the rubbish in a pang of exhaustion, in a  kitchen full of dirty dishes, after cooking a big meal? I for one do not enjoy standing and picking the meat off a carcass with my fingers.  But I also do not enjoy preparing a soup recipe only to find out, after putting lots of time into it, that it mostly tastes like the stock I bought from the store. I don’t cook a whole bird but maybe once a month, and when I do I buy very high quality poultry, so it always makes me feel terrible to throw any away.  But having it hang around also seems like THE WORST sometimes.

wish bone

So I am writing to you today, two days before Thanksgiving, to put a bug in your ear about how to overcome the carcass-burnout syndrome.

Take that turkey or chicken– dont worry about the meat left on it– toss it in your slow cooker. (You will have to break up a turkey carcass unless you have a very large slow cooker– hack it in two, freeze half in a plastic bag.)

chicken stock, in two jars

 

Add whatever you have on hand: onion, celery, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, parsley, carrots.  And then if you have it, add about a cup of white wine.  Then about ten cups of water, until it covers the carcass.  Then a tsp of salt.  If you dont have any of this stuff, that’s ok.  I have even done this with granulated garlic, and it is still superior to the store bought stock.

Cook it on low for 8 hours.  The carcass will completely fall apart.  Ladle it through a strainer into a large pitcher or bowl, and let it cool in the refrigerator.  Once cool, you can portion it into freezer bags for later use.  And if you do this right away, the night of Thanksgiving, you can use the stock to make turkey soup the next day.  Let me know if you do this– I would love to find out I had enabled homemade stock into happening.

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Tagged: broth, chicken, food, poultry, recipe, savory, slow cooker, soup, stock, thanksgiving, turkey

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Pumpkin Apple Muffins

Meredith

Posted on October 5, 2013

I bought a Kent pumpkin, although no one at the check out stand knew what kind of pumpkin it was.  I told them, “It’s a Kent pumpkin.” But the prices listed were only for butternut and acorn squash.  They decided to ignore me, and then both agreed it was a dumpling squash.  It was a Kent pumpkin, which is about five times the size of any dumpling squash, but I didn’t argue with them.  Sometimes grocery clerks can only believe varieties that are in the book with a code next to the name– and sometimes we are lucky to have some extra varieties sneak in to the produce section, like this Kent pumpkin did.

Kent Pumpkin

Kent pumpkins, as I learned from the winter edition of my new favorite cooking magazine, are also called Japanese pumpkins, and they are easy to peel and delicious roasted.  The magazine is published in Australia, and I kind of like having a winter addition at the end of summer here– so I can be thinking ahead (I don’t often cook what I read about right away).  But the thing I love about it is that even though it is super glossy and everything looks beautiful and delicious– there are over 60 recipes in this one edition, and very few ads relative to other magazines.  It comes out six tmies per year, and the recipes are very diverse– kind of Euro, but also plenty of South Asian fare.  Several recipes for pumpkin (although not these muffins, which are my own creation) and even how to make several kinds of curry paste yourself, flourless cakes, and more.

You can of course use canned pumpkin, but really, this will have less flavor and make the batter much more runny.  Making the pumpkin for this recipe is so easy, just requires a bit of forethought.  It is not as complicated as pumpkin pie pumpkin, which needs to a certain consistency for a custard.  This is easier– you dont have to freeze the pumpkin and then press the liquid out.  Just cut it in half, remove the seeds, and place it face down in a baking dish.  Cook on 450 degrees for one hour.  Let cool.  Scoop pumpkin flesh into a bowl.

The consistency of this Kent pumpkin was a bit on the starchy side– like a baked sweet potato.  But very flavorful.  The texture makes it good for using in savory dishes as well, which is what I did with the first half of my Kent pumpkin.

These muffins are intentionally less sweet– I don’t like my muffins to be like cake, and I don’t think the pumpkin and apples need a lot of sugar to taste right.  Also, there is plenty of moisture in these (often sugar provides moisture and makes for a nice crumb in cakes and breads– but with this much squash and apple, it isn’t a factor).  These muffins have about 9-10 grams of sugar each, which is half of most muffins, if you can believe it.

Pumpkin Apple Muffins

makes one dozen

Ingredients

  • 1 lb roasted pumpkin
  • 2 medium apples, grated on a large cheese grater (I used fuji)
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1/2 cup olive oil or similar
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla
  • 1 and 1/2 cups flour
  • 1/2 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/4 tsp nutmeg
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp allspice or cloves
  • 1/2 tsp baking soda
  • 1/4 tsp baking powder

Procedure

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
  2. Mix together wet ingredients: pumpkin, apple, sugar, eggs, oil, vanilla.  Use a hand mixer on medium-high speed until well blended.   Set aside.
  3. Whisk together remaining ingredients, and gradually combine with wet ingredients using mixer on low and then medium.  Batter should be thick but not dry.  If you use canned pumpkin, it will be thinner, and you may want to add 1/4 cup more flour if needed.
  4. Scoop into 12 lightly greased muffin tins.  Bake for 20-25 minutes, until a skewer comes out clean.

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Tagged: apple, baking, donna hay, japanese pumpkin, kent pumpkin, low sugar, muffins, pumpkin, recipes

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A fine challenge

Meredith

Posted on July 20, 2013

Sometimes going to a new restaurant or reading food blogs can offer plenty of negative reinforcement for the mantra “less is more.”  To me, sophistication does not equal complexity or overwrought combinations of hard to find ingredients.

Although, some places seem to make combining strange ingredients into  a sort of art form.  For the most part, I frown upon this.  Maybe it’s my Pennsylvania Dutch ancestry, since I am pretty sure I am not the only cook in my family who feels this way.

This is not to say I do not have an open mind, seek out diverse foods, or am afraid to try new things.  (My people did apparently invent this, so don’t think we aren’t fun!)  I am not an unfussy cook, after all.  I just appreciate efforts to do tried and true foods expertly, or with a little finesse, so as to make them particularly excellent and like a new thing again.  I mean, when we think we are just eating something we have had before, and then it is really impressive and we taste it for the first time all over again– those are the recipes worth hunting down and hanging onto.  It seems to me a fine challenge to make simple things with slightly different approaches or techniques.  It can be far more worth while than adding crazy stuff.

So here’s a classic combo: strawberries and cream.  Fruit and cream is really not a bad idea, in general.  Particularly on shortcake– which you might recall from my post last summer, in which I set the record straight on that tradition as best I could.  The irony here today, is that I am going to share with you a sponge cake recipe.  But this cake is not going to be called shortcake, so we won’t need to do any re-education down the line.

But what makes this recipe special? Well, a couple things.  For one, it has this pretty amazing whipped cream beaten with cream cheese, so it is light and fluffy like whipped cream, but rich and a little tangy like cream cheese.  Not as unstable as whipped cream, and not overly rich like cream cheese frosting can sometimes be– this version is less sweet, but still knock your socks off yummy.

Also, it makes a impressive cake as tall as a layer cake, but it is really only one cake cut into three.  So you are eating less cake, more fruit and cream– almost like a parfait.  It looks really fancy, and tastes like you should be at a wedding on the Cape drinking champagne with it, but it is actually pretty easy to make. (My favorite kind of recipe!)

The cake does require a bit of finesse– you have to cut one layer into three.  But even if your layers are a little uneven, it will still look pretty and delicious.  Also, you have to arrange a lot of berries, and carefully spoon on the right amount of puree, and gently dollop the whipped cream mixture.  A light touch, and a firm hand to gently build the layers without smooshing it all out the sides.

If it’s very hot out, assemble this right before eating.  If transporting to a summer fête, assemble about an hour before, and thoroughly chill in a cake carrier.  It will likely all get eaten in a few minutes at a party, as mine did, but beware the cake does get soggy after about a day.

Strawberry Cream Cake

adapted from Cooks Illustrated

INGREDIENTS

Cake

  • 1 ¼ cups cake flour 
  • 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder 
  • ¼ teaspoon table salt 
  • 1 cup sugar 
  • 5 large eggs (2 whole and 3 separated), room temperature
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter , melted and cooled slightly
  • 2 tablespoons water 
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Strawberry Filling

  • 2 pounds fresh strawberries (medium or large, about 2 quarts), washed, dried, and stemmed
  • 4 – 6 tablespoons sugar 
  • 2 tablespoons Kirsch
  • Pinch table salt

Whipped Cream

  • 8 ounces cream cheese , room temperature
  • 1/3 cup sugar 
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 
  • 1/8 teaspoon table salt 
  • 2 cups heavy cream

PROCEDURE

  1. FOR THE CAKE: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Grease and flour round 9 by 2-inch cake pan or 9-inch springform pan and line with parchment paper. Whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, and all but 3 tablespoons sugar. Use a hand mixer to mix in 2 whole eggs and 3 yolks (reserving whites), butter, water, and vanilla until smooth. Remove beaters and clean.

  2. In a clean bowl, use the hand mixer to beat remaining 3 egg whites at medium-low speed until frothy, 1 to 2 minutes. With mixer running, gradually add remaining 3 tablespoons sugar, increase speed to medium-high, and beat until soft peaks form, 60 to 90 seconds. Stir one-third of whites into batter to lighten; add remaining whites and gently fold into batter until no white streaks remain. To fold, I use a large rubber spatula, and continually move the batter from the bottom of the bowl onto the top of the mixture, rotating the bowl. Pour batter into prepared pan and bake until toothpick or wooden skewer inserted into center of cake comes out clean, 30 to 40 minutes. Cool in pan 10 minutes, then invert cake onto a wire rack; peel off and discard parchment. Invert cake again; cool completely, about 2 hours.

  3. FOR THE STRAWBERRY FILLING: Halve 24 of best-looking berries and reserve. Quarter remaining berries; toss with 4 to 6 tablespoons sugar (depending on sweetness of berries) in medium bowl and let sit 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Strain juices from berries and reserve (you should have about 1/4 cup). In workbowl of food processor fitted with metal blade, give macerated berries five 1-second pulses (you should have about 1 1/2 cups). In small saucepan over medium-high heat, simmer reserved juices and Kirsch or other liquor until syrupy and reduced to about 3 tablespoons, 3 to 5 minutes. Pour reduced syrup over macerated berries, add pinch of salt, and toss to combine. Set aside until cake is cooled.

  4. FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM: When cake has cooled, place cream cheese, sugar, vanilla, and salt in bowl. Beat at medium-high speed until light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes, scraping down bowl with rubber spatula as needed. Reduce speed to low and add heavy cream in slow, steady stream; when almost fully combined, increase speed to medium-high and beat until mixture holds stiff peaks, 2 to 2 1/2 minutes more, scraping bowl as needed (you should have about 4 1/2 cups).

  5. TO ASSEMBLE THE CAKE: Using large serrated or sharp chef’s knife, slice cake into three even layers. Place bottom layer on cardboard round or cake plate and arrange ring of 20 strawberry halves, cut sides down and stem ends facing out, around perimeter of cake layer. Pour one half of pureed berry mixture (about 3/4 cup) in center, then spread to cover any exposed cake. Gently spread about one-third of whipped cream (about 1 1/2 cups) over berry layer, leaving 1/2-inch border from edge. Place middle cake layer on top and press down gently (whipped cream layer should become almost flush with cake edge). Repeat with 20 additional strawberry halves, remaining berry mixture, and half of remaining whipped cream; gently press last cake layer on top. Spread remaining whipped cream over top; decorate with remaining cut strawberries. Serve, or chill for up to 4 hours.

Print Strawberry Cream Cake Recipe

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Tagged: cake, cream cheese, recipe, sponge cake, strawberry, strawberry cream cake, summer dessert, whipped cream

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Avocado Tomatillo Sauce

Meredith

Posted on July 6, 2013

Another green concoction for you!  My sister made a sauce like this for me when I visited her last September, and used it to dress a salad topped with grilled london broil.  It haunted me, and now I must share it with the world.  Steak salad is a perfect summer meal, and this sauce turns it into a sort of deconstructed taco experience.  Now that avocados are cheap and ripe and perfect in the store, it’s time to roll out this recipe.

There are lots of ways of controlling the spice here– you can leave the seeds in the chile as I like to do, but you can also grill the chile longer to get it less intense.  If you still find the mixture to much of a kick, add some more lime and avocado and puree some more.

You should end up with a tangy, creamy and fluffy sauce, thick enough to dip a chip, but pourable too.  I ate this all week long, first on steak salad, then on grilled pork chops (which was kind of amazing, actually), and finally with whatever crackers I could find.  It is lighter and less rich than guacamole, but plenty flavorful enough for a dressing.  You may not need the water at all, depending on how juicy your tomatillos end of up being after you grill them.

Avocado Tomatillo Sauce

INGREDIENTS

  • 5-6 medium tomatillo, cut in half
  • 1 jalapeno, stemmed and halved
  • 1 large clove of garlic, quartered
  • 1 ripe avocados, plus a second just in case
  • 1 tablespoon canola oil
  • juice of 1-2 limes
  • ½ cup cilantro, stemmed
  • 1/2 tsp salt, to taste
  • 3-4 tablespoons water

PROCEDURE

  1. Grill or broil the tomatillos and jalapenos on high heat until charred and softened; allow to cool down. Tomatillos will turn from bright green to a brownish green, and the chiles will blister on the outside skin.
  2. Combine all ingredients (except the 2nd avocado and lime) in a blender and puree until smooth and creamy, adding water if necessary. Test for spicyness– if too hot, add more avocado and/or lime juice and puree some more.
  3. Serve over steak, or other grilled meat, or just with tortilla chips.
Avocado Tomatillo Sauce

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Tagged: avocado, chile, cilantro, food, grilling, recipe, salad, salad dressing, salsa, steak, summer, tomatillo, vegetarian

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Agua de Alfalfa

Meredith

Posted on July 1, 2013

DSC_0134Somehow it is possible in Las Vegas to miss both Oregon and Texas simultaneously. This is because San Antonio and Portland are two of the greenest cities I have lived in– and I literally mean the color green. As in trees. And things growing out of the ground. Things not anchored by macadam. Although San Antonio has its share of suburban pavement– my little section of it is known for its crumbling side walks made hazardous by the wrangling roots of old pecan trees, invasive flowering vines, old cedars towering over the tiny but lush river that flows out of downtown. And Oregon, well, they can grow anything in Oregon. I mean, it’s ridiculous.

So here I am trying to get by in this impressively hot weather made even hotter by the neverending pavement underneath me and all around me. You can feel it emmanating up from the ground if you go outside late at night. It’s been 116 the last couple days. So much for “the meadow” that was once here. Hopefully the weather will keep me indoors, getting through the back log of recipes I have for you. I am such a terrible blogger these days.

On a positive note, we have found a nearby spot that serves Oaxacan food (something Vegas does have– plenty of variety when it comes to Mexican food), and really good aguas frescas, with the metal vats submerged in an ice cream freezer. Not the honeycomb shaped jars on the counter that arms have to reach into to serve from (like the ones at HEB I will never try.) We tried a bright green flavor, and now it is my go-to summer drink. Agua de Alfalfa. If you haven’t tried aguas frescas, you should know that the best ones are not sweet like kool-aid, and much more refreshing than juice.

Essentially this is water with a little juice, fruit (and in this case, alfalfa) chopped up and steeped in it for flavor, and some sugar. But they are easily made as sweet as you like if you make them at home, with sugar or with stevia, as I have done.

DSC_0125

Drinking sprouts is really good for you: Alfalfa is high in protein, calcium, plus other minerals, vitamins in the B group, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, and vitamin K. By the way, this makes a great drink mix. In fact, agua de alfalfa reminded me a lot of a delicious Pim’s Cup I had at a speakeasy in San Antonio. So if you like cucumber drinks, you might like this with splash of vodka. And if you are hungry, try my green chorizo with your green agua. I am beginning to sound like Dr. Suess.

Agua de Alfalfa

Ingredients

  • 3 cups water, plus more to taste
  • 1/4 cup agave nectar
  • 1 tablespoon stevia (I only use pure stevia, which is actually hard to find– most of the brands mix stevia with various alcohol sugars to make it even sweeter than it is, so read the package)
  • 1 package alfalfa sprouts
  • juice of 6 limes

Procedure

  1. Pour the water into a blender, and add the agave and stevia.
  2. Then add all the other ingredients. Blend on high until foamy and all the sprouts are pureed.
  3. Chill or serve over ice.
To Print This Recipe, Click Here.

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Tagged: agave, agua de alfalfa, aguas frescas, alfalfa sprouts, drink mix, drinks, food, lime, recipe, stevia, summer

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When You Know The Odds

Meredith

Posted on February 18, 2013

I used to work part-time at a food cooperative in Portland, Oregon, and the produce manager there used to place bets with volunteers that every week they could find something on his small but mighty produce display that they had never eaten before.  This was the kind of bet you make because you know the odds (or because you order the produce, and you know the farmers.)  This was a real  point of pride– and illustrative of the amazing diversity of farming going on in Oregon.  That produce rack introduced me to watermelon radishes, lemon cucumbers, gold beets, countless strange looking summer squash, and some incredible tomatoes I later grew myself in Oregon.

turnips, yams, beets, parsnips, carrots, rutabaga

But it got me thinking, since I sometimes find myself afraid to cook with new ingredients, or having difficulty getting those I eat meals with to try new vegetables:  how do you really get people to eat veggies they aren’t used to seeing?

I mean, we have so much to choose from nowadays at the store– but so much of it is shipped from around the world.  That is the irony: moving food around the globe has made us less adventurous eaters in most cases.  All this time, delicious nutritious root vegetables grown near most of us are just sitting in the back row, looking dejected as the countless shoppers pick up another $4 clamshell of blueberries shipped from Chile.  I made two batches of this recipe, and even with the added cost of all organic produce and an expensive bunch of thyme, the bill was less than $7.  And I still have carrots and thyme leftover.  Oh, and did I mention, this dish is BEAUTIFUL to look at?

Sometimes the best way to introduce less conventional foods into the palette is to mix it with more familiar foods, and to make it slightly difficult to identify, causing the eater to pause and try to guess what they are eating, but then take another bite.  This is how my roasted root vegetables dish evolved– I just continued to add things that interested me.  So far, people have devoured it, despite the fact that they can usually only identify two of the five roots by taste.

This is a great dish if you want to fill your house with good aromas.  It is also good if you are too lazy to make mashed potatoes, or some other traditional side.  But mostly it goes with almost anything, since it has a sweet, salty, herby set of flavors, with a little spice from the turnips.  The whole garlic cloves turn to carmelized jewels.  We ate this with grilled chicken one night, and lamb chops another night.  Pretty much you want to grab all the funny looking root veggies you can find at your grocer, and go to town.

Cutting everything small speeds up the cooking and browning.   This is so easy, it is a good recipe for those new to cooking.  If you can find yams or sweet potatoes with a nice tender skin, leave the skin on.

Roasted Root Vegetables

Ingredients

  • 1 large rutabaga
  • 1 large turnip
  • 1 large parsnip
  • 2-3 medium carrots
  • 1 large yam
  • 4-5 cloves garlic, whole, peeled

Marinade:

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons tamari/ soy sauce
  • 1 tsp. Salt
  • 1 tsp ground pepper
  • 4-5 sprigs fresh thyme, picked and roughly chopped
  • 2 tsps. maple syrup

Procedure:

  1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
  2. Chop all vegetables into piece about 1/2-1 inch thick. Peel beets, carrots, parsnips, yams. Trim the ends and any roots or rough spots off of the turnip and rutabaga. Trim both ends off each clove of garlic and rub to remove the peel. Pile the veggies onto a large rimed baking sheet.
  3. Mix the marinade in a jar and shake. Pour over the vegetables and mix with your hands spreading everything into a single layer.
  4. Bake for 30-40 minutes, until fork tender.
(To print this recipe, click here!)

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Tagged: beets, carrots, easy, food, garlic, recipe, root vegetables, rutabaga, soy, sweet potatoes, thyme, turnips, vegetarian, yams

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MÜNCHENER APFEL PFANNEKUCHEN

Meredith

Posted on January 27, 2013

German for “best pancake ever.”  When you go to order this at the Magnolia Haus in San Antonio, the friendly wait staff are trained to spot you trying to say “Munk-nih–” and they finish pronouncing it for you, so quickly you want them to say it three more times.  It’s really German for “Munich Apple Pancake” and it claims to be “an authentic taste of Bavaria” translated from Oma’s cookbook.  I believe it.

out of the oven and ready to flip onto a plate

If you don’t feel like waiting in line for an hour to get a seat in one of MH’s hard little wooden gingerbread booths (is this authentic German too?) to eat this, you can make it at home, in your pajamas, with a pot of coffee.  This place was featured last year on a Food Network show, so what was before an incredibly busy restaurant is now two insanely busy restaurants.  And if you are trying not to eat enormous amounts of dessert for breakfast, and you don’t have your entire extended family around to share it with you, you can make my more modest sized version below.  It turns out eating even half of this modified version is far less calories and sugar than an American pancake with syrup.

When I first ate this, I was impressed with the intensity of cinnamon.  It is thoroughly spiced, which makes this more intense than most cinnamon rolls even.  I cannot wait to make this with some rye flour, and maybe sprinkle with some toasted nuts.  You could do all kinds of variations here– although apple cinnamon, with a rich vanilla batter is perfectly wonderful.  It looks somewhat fancy, but it was incredibly easy to make.  The texture is fluffier and more airy than a pancake, and the taste is richer than a crepe.

apples in butter and brown sugar

MÜNCHENER APFEL PFANNEKUCHEN

adapted from Magnolia Pancake Haus

(New Feature! To Print this recipe, click here.)

 Ingredients

  •  1 small tart sweet apple, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
  • 2 eggs
  • 1/3 cup milk (whole milk is preferred)
  • 1 tsp. vanilla
  • 1/3 cup flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 cup packed brown sugar
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons cold butter
  • Powdered sugar or whipped cream to garnish

 Procedure

  1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
  2. Toss the apples with cinnamon and nutmeg, and saute in a 6-inch oven-proof nonstick pan. Stir occasionally with a rubber spatula to prevent sticking. Sauté over medium-low heat until apples begin to soften, about 3 to 5 minutes. (This is about how long it takes to make the batter.)
  3. While the apples are cooking, whisk together the eggs, milk and vanilla in a medium bowl. Add the flour, sugar and salt and whisk until just combined. Don’t overmix (a few lumps can remain, but it should be a thin batter).
  4. Increase the heat on the apples to medium and add the brown sugar and butter. Stir this until it begins to form a syrup (it will bubble nicely, like in the picture here), about 2 to 3 minutes.
  5. Pour the batter into the center of the pan. With a heat-resistant spatula, swirl the apple syrup mixture through the batter. Do not fully combine the syrup and batter– try to get the batter to the outer edges but keep the apples on the bottom.
  6. Cook on the stovetop until small bubbles appear around the edges of the pancake. Transfer the pan to the oven for 10-12 minutes. Remove the pan with oven mitts or towels, then turn the pancake over onto a plate (mine slid right out when I turned the pan over– no need to hold the plate to the pan.) Since these are smaller than the original recipe, inverting a plate onto a very hot saute pan is not necessary– just dont forget to use an oven mitt.
  7. Sprinkle powdered sugar over top, or add whipped cream, or just dig in. You dont really need any syrup or anything on this– it is perfect all by itself!
Magnolia Pancake Haus on Urbanspoon

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Categories: recipes, restaurants, vegetarian

Tagged: apple pancake, apples, breakfast, cinnamon, crepe, food, german food, magnolia pancake haus, MÜNCHENER APFEL PFANNEKUCHEN, pancake, recipe, san antonio

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Salsa Taquera

Meredith

Posted on January 13, 2013

I am almost finished reading a book about the history of the taco, which of course involves the history of tortillas, and therefore the history of corn and wheat flour, and has much to do with the history of  the industrialization of food, as well as mining in 19th century Mexico, the lost chili queens of old San Antonio, taco night in Norway, surfer’s running taquerias in Amsterdam, how to make mole in France… a couple of wars and revolutions, colonization, nation building, ranching, tequila making… I’m working up an appetite.

salsa taquera

The history of foodways might seem like some obscure thing to read about, but it really is reading the history of the world.  In fact it might be the most inter-sectional and materialist way to explore history: it tells the story of the peoples who have made and grown (or gathered) foods, the various political and social events behind how ingredients and dishes migrated and became distinct yet evolving symbols of class, culture, race, gender and sexuality, and every other type of status you can imagine.  (And all this before mass marketing and commercialization had a hand in things– but the book covers this too.)  It tells how people changed their food to adapt to the earth, and how we changed the earth to adapt to our food.  It tells how technology conquered, as well as how cultural biases were often counter forces to innovation.

tacos adobado

The simple act of making food portable– by wrapping it in a tortilla, or a corn husk– had massive economic implications, making it possible for people to travel, or do industrial work for long hours without going home, or make a living selling cooked food on the street.  But there is also the story of outsiders (who come as conquerors, expropriators, and admirers) complex, often bizarre and varied interpretations of a culture and a people based on how a new food tasted to them.  As I make my way through the text, I begin to see how the idea of authenticity becomes a kind of grudge one group of experts holds against many others’ varied experiences; a kind of myth that begs impossible assumptions about how history should have been.

I will do a full review soon, explaining the above with more detail, but I could not resist sharing both a recipe for salsa taquera, and my new favorite taco spot in Las Vegas– Tacos El Gordo, which can also be found in Tijuana, Mexico.  The difference between tacos in Tijuana (or Las Vegas for that matter) and those in San Antonio (and south Texas) is really worth a book, and now there is one that does both versions justice.  Thank you Jeffrey Pilcher.

chef serving pork adobado (on the spit, with pineapple on top)

My first visit to Tacos El Gordo was late on a Friday night.  Given its proximity to the Las Vegas Strip, you can imagine how crowded it was.  But to add to the crowding, there is intense semi-organized chaos as lines form in front of the half a dozen cooks working their grills– as opposed to a conventional central counter that takes your order.  You have to yell what you want over a glass partition, and then watch them make your tacos, with lightening speed and precision.  Flinging salsa in the air with a ladle and catching it with the taco in the other hand just seems fun until you notice the cooks apron doesn’t even have a single drop of salsa on it after hours of doing this– and then you are in awe.

The favorite taco here is the pork adobado– with a chunk of pineapple from the top of the spit.  A personal favorite of mine is the taco suadero– which comes with a salsa similar to the one I have made below.  It reminds me of really flavorful pot roast, but full of tangy notes and so tender.  There are only about a dozen menu items– a few tacos, a few quesadillas (small ones, with gooey Mexican cheese and whatever else you want, topped with a crispy white corn tortilla, and a soft one on the bottom.)

suadero quesadilla

It is probably one of the least over-priced meals you will have in Vegas, but also probably one of the most expertly made, delicious and memorable.

This salsa is one I have always wanted to figure out– it is both smokey and sweet, and tangy and hot.  It is all-purpose, hence the name.  The morita can also be used here in this recipe.

Salsa Taquera

Ingredients

  • 1 lb tomatillos, husked and rinsed
  • 1 to 3 dried chile moritas, stemmed (depending on how spicy you like it)
  • ¾ cup water
  • 1 small white onion
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled
  • Salt
  • ¼ cup chopped cilantro
  • fresh lime juice (optional)

Procedure

  1. Toast the dried moritas in a skillet for a couple minutes, until you smell them. Then place them in a bowl and cover them in hottest tap water for 30 minutes. Stir them up once in a while to make sure they are submerged.
  2. Slice tomatillos in half and lay them on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil them on the top ove rack for about 5 minutes on each side (you will need to turn them). Let them cool, and them place them in the blender with any juices.
  3. Reduce your oven temp to 425 degrees and roast the onions (loosely chopped) and garlic for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Let them cool.
  4. Add the garlic cloves and moritas and ¾ cup water to the blender and pulse until smooth– checking for large piece of the chile. Pour the salsa into a serving bowl. Note: if you want the salsa to look more green– puree the moritas with just enough of the tomatillo and water to make it blend thoroughly, then mix this by hand into the rest of the pureed tomatillos and water. (I dont like my salsa thick so much as not too homogenized, so steps 4 and 5 are all about preference: some folks puree everything together at this stage– but I like to mix the onion and cilantro in by hand.)
  5. Chop the onion. Stir the onion and cilantro into the salsa, along with about 1 tsp. of salt. Add water if it is too thick. If you made it too spicy, try a squeeze of lime too.

broiled tomatillos

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Categories: foodways, recipes, restaurants, vegetarian

Tagged: adobado, chipotle, el gordo, jeffrey pilcher, las vegas, morita, planet taco, recipe, salsa, suadero, tacos, taquera, taqueria, tomatillo

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